Bodywork 101
uc2.jpg
uc2.jpg
Don't forget to shoot your undercoating in the trunk before you paint. The correct look is undercoating covered with body paint color. I shot my undercoating with a Schutz gun. I have listed this gun in the tools section of my web page. The Schutz gun is the only way to get a rough enough texture to emulate the factory look. The stuff in cans is just too runny to get the big globs that the factory did.

uc3.jpg
uc3.jpg
I used the pattern found on my car originally to put the undercoating on. The spot of gray is where I tested the primer to make sure it would stick well to the coating.

uc5.jpg
uc5.jpg
A few things to take note of before we wrap u the trunk are the alignment holes and the filler neck opening that I marked in red. The jack hold down hardware in green. Finally in blue are the wiring loom tabs. I made mine from sheet metal to the original size the dipped them in Plasti-Coat to emulate the originals.

ws3.jpg
ws3.jpg
Green for the seat and alignment holes, red for the bodywork on the windshield lip and purple for the console brackets...I promise I am done with colored arrows for a while.

ws1.jpg
ws1.jpg
Here is the lip after it has been sanded and primed. Just like the back window the front one needs a smooth lip to seal upon.

ws2.jpg
ws2.jpg
Be sure that if there are any pits along the outside edge to fill them now as you will have to contour sand this area and it has to be right or it will stand out when it is painted.

fen1jpg
fen1.jpg
Here is the fender all primed and ready to start being worked. We will wait on the body work on this until we have the car assembled and can fine tune the panel to the car.

rd1.jpg
rd1.jpg
Remeber how pitiful this area was with the huge rust hole and nastiness? After welding in a patch and grinding it smooth there was not much filling to do so the final job looks great!


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