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After I stripped the dash of all it's attachments I gave it a light media blasting to remove the old paint and light crust that had built up over the years. Overall, it was very structurally sound with just some light pits along the windshield edge and a few shallow dents.
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After shooting a coat of etching primer I started filling the dents with a little glazing. The dents were not even bad enough to use filler just a light glaze to smooth things out.
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The dash VIN tag is shot in gloss black and I masked around it then shot it with Plasticoat Gloss Black. I waited for it to dry then covered it up with a few layers of tape to protect it during sanding.
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A couple more light spots of glaze and this side is ready to be finish sanded then primed.
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A quick word about my stand for working on the dash seems to be in order. I measured the distance between the attachment points on the dash frame then cut a 2x6 to fit. I then strapped the 2x6 to my roll around tool tray and screwed the dash to the 2x6. This works out great because it is on wheels and it is height adjustable with room for my tools.
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I shot this side with a light coat of sealer/primer and will sand it smooth when it drys with some 600 grit.
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Here is this side finish sanded and ready for paint.
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All ready for paint as soon as I trim the tape around the VIN tag with a razor blade so the dash paint will come right up to the edge.
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"Don't step on my black suede dash, Oh Man!" The correct paint for the dash is Black Suede textured paint. I have seen so many flat black dashed at shows and it isn't correct. MOPAINTS sells the Black Suede and it ain't cheap but it does make a really cool finish.
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How cool does that textured finish look? Little touches like the correct finishes really set a restoration apart form others. Take the time and spend the extra money and you will sleep better at night.
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