 f1.jpg |
Here is the first fender after it's initial coat of Duroglass and filler. You can see that the filler smooths out the work I had to do on the front but it is not more than 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Just keep working the metal until you can use the filler in thin coats and you will end up with a strong solid repair.
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 f2.jpg |
A good method to follow when adding filler is overcoat the area then work the it down until it is flat and smooth. I used an air file with 80 grit to sand the Duroglass and filler smooth then a hand block with 180 for shaping.
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 f3.jpg |
I am very pleased to have been able to have scored these rust-free fenders as the lower panels behind the wheels are smooth, original metal with no patches and very little filler to smooth them out.
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 f4.jpg |
With a lot of hammer & dolly work the face of this fender requires very little filler to be smooth. When hammering a large area like this just start with the largest dent and work it until smooth then move on to the next one and so forth. Many little hits are always better than one big one so take your time and you will be rewarded with a smooth surface.
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 f5.jpg |
Here is the driver's side after it's first skim coat and a rough sanding. Next step is to switch paper to the 180 grit and hand block out the fender.
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 f6.jpg |
This is what it looks like after hand block sanding. Not much of the filler is left and what remains is just a thin coat that smooths out the surface of the fender. Be sure to exercise extreme care around the body lines. Only sand up to the body line and never go over it or it will round it out. Most of the body lines on these fenders were good and required no filler so it was not an issue here.
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 f7.jpg |
Here is the top of the fender after the initial sanding of the E-Coating. All the silver spots are high spots that need to be addressed with the hammer & dolly. Again, go slow and take your time and the metal will work it back into a smooth surface that will require very little filler. |
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